January!
This month I have: gone to the zoo, had an old friend visit, begun a job hunt, learned what a coordinating conjunction is and how it functions in a sentence.
A few weeks ago, my friend Josh and his sister Alicia came to stay with my family. We have known them for about twelve years now, having first met them in Dubai, UAE, in that long distant year of our Lord, nineteen-hundred and ninety six.
I was excited to have a good friend visit.
Since I arrived in August, I have purposely eschewed any semblance of frivolous socializing. That mostly means just one thing: no English-speaking friends. My reasoning was that I was here in Egypt for very specific reasons, and that until I accomplished certain goals I should not get distracted. This might seem a little puritanical to some, but I am very easily led astray.
After a few months of this self-imposed mad-professor lifestyle, it was certainly nice to have a slew of meaningless conversations, reminisce a little, as well as engage in a couple debates and exchanges of viewpoint.
Josh had spent a year and a half in Khartoum, and so we had great fun comparing prices of similar foods like Ful (beans) and Molokheya (Okra soup), the virtue of different types of public transportation such as Tuk-Tuks, Microbusses, the Cairo Metro and differences between Egyptian and Sudanese dialects of Arabic.
The most memorable outing that we took was a trip to the Cairo Zoo.
” . . . I do believe, I do believe it’s true . . . “
It was interesting.
One of my Egyptian friends, Sally, told us a while back that because of poor conditions at the Zoo, it’s lost its accreditation with the World Association of Zoos and Aquariums. I now have reason to believe her.
From Maa’di, the Giza (Gee-zuh) zoo is about a twenty-five minute drive. Since it is right around the corner from Cairo University, there was a ton of traffic. I probably have driven about six times since I have been in Cairo, opting for public transportation, as it is so much cheaper and more convenient. The trip to the zoo further reminded me of why I avoid driving. There was the usual traffic, and then there was the extra university traffic and then there was the zoo traffic compounded into one headache.
Finding parking at the zoo was not a problem. There were about three ranks of double-parked cars stretched about half a kilometer along the main road. All of them had been left in neutral, so that if someone needed to get their car out all one had to do was merely roll the blocking cars out of the way into the road (being mindful oncoming traffic) while another person drove their car out into freedom. Then the other car would be rolled back into place, and Viola!
Of course, the car that I had driven, was an automatic–there was no way to leave it in neutral. So, I gave the guy who had guided us to our spot my car keys. He wasn’t in a uniform mind you; he had a bunch of other sets of keys and so I felt that he was legitimate. I must admit though, I felt this little nagging feeling as we walked towards the entrance of the Zoo.
There were three of us. Josh, Yasser and I. Yasser is my Egyptian friend who first told me about the zoo. I had promised him that when Josh came, we would all go together. It was especially helpful to have him in the car on the way over because otherwise I never would have made it. Giza is tricky driving. He paid for our entrance. 17 cents apiece.
At first, I was surprised at how big the place was. There was a really good selection of animals. I’m not a biologist, or zoo expert, but everything seemed to be fairly decent. I had half expected to see cages with starving animals dying in lonely corners. None of that.
But… we were followed around the whole time by a photographer who promised to get us a picture with the lions. Like with the lions. Holding lions. This did stand out in my mind as a deviation from standard zoo procedure.
When we visited the reptile house, a shady looking, yellow-booted attendant whipped out a baby crocodile from off the cold concrete floor from beside his bucket and put it into our hands to hold. Our photographer snapped pictures, and then handed the janitor/keeper a wad of small bills. We could not help noticing that the animal didn’t have any teeth.
Later, we were indeed taken behind the lion cages to see the lions up close. The whole thing was a little disconcerting. We stood there while the lion keeper worked a Byzantine pulley system of metal wires which were connected to metal grates which in turn opened onto the long indoor corridor in which we stood. The corridor was lined with cages full of lions. We did not stay for long. It was also depressing.
Eventually, we went to a kiosk to get the pictures developed. The kiosk was in the middle of the zoo. There were lots of pictures of tourists and locals holding baby lion cubs and posing with other animals. It was laughable. The whole time, our guide, and the zoo hands acted like we were getting some sort of behind-the-scenes look at things. At one point we were rushed out of the lion area, because “the boss was coming”. As if what they were doing was against the zoo’s policy.
We ended up buying some pictures ’cause the guy had shot a roll of film. Ya, he was using film; he couldn’t erase the pictures he had taken. They were also kind of cool. Since then I’ve read a lot of online articles about the Giza zoo. Here’s a good one from the L.A. Times. http://articles.latimes.com/2008/jun/07/world/fg-gizazoo8
It turns out that the zoo, while wonderful in its own way, is a pretty dysfunctional place underneath it all — a good microcosm of Cairo in general. One thing is for sure, if I were to go back, I wouldn’t do the picture thing again, being better informed.
Sundries
(The internet has been too slow to upload pictures mmgrr…They’re coming soon)
So, that guardhouse finally got built! The process was an adventure in and of itself. Here is a pic.

Notice how no one is actually in it. And how the soldier on the corner is sleeping.
Also, I planted some sunflowers about two months ago. Here is an old picture of the flowers a few weeks after I planted them. I post new ones soon.

"Sunflower and Shadow"
Josh and I with Mr. toothless.

:(